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Herb Primer
Renowned chefs dish about their favorite herbs and give tips on usage, storage, flavor, and recipes.

By Monica Bhide
August 2006

Rosemary, thyme, basil… all aromatic herbs that add excellent flavor to dishes. If you have ever wondered about the best way to use a herb to obtain maximum flavor, look no further. Come with us as we talk to leading cookbook authors about their secrets to buying, using, and storing their favorite herbs. From tarragon and rosemary to the more unusual za’atar, let America’s favorite cookbook authors show you how to better use your current herbs and also how to expand your horizons by adding new seasonings to your existing collection!

Spice Primer

Rosemary rhubarb lemonade

Pan-Roasted Salmon with Green Beans, Yellow Pear Tomatoes, and Basil Oil

French Scramble

Lemon-stuffed roast chicken with herbs

Red Tabbouleh

Chef Kathy Casey owns Kathy Casey Food Studios and Dish D'Lish™, is the author of several cookbooks, and writes a food column for the Seattle Times.

Kathy’s favorite herb is rosemary.

Flavor: “I love rosemary's fragrance and adaptability! This woodsy herb has so many uses. It readily gives a wonderful scent to everything from lemonades and cocktails to grilled meats, sauces, roasted vegetables—especially mushrooms and the squash family, and baked goods. You can even use its strong stems as little skewers. Also, rosemary is easy to grow in the Pacific Northwest, where I live, and stays green all year.”

Storage: “Rosemary works well in either fresh or dried forms. If possible, grow your own and cut it as needed. To store the fresh herb, wrap loosely in damp paper towels and then place in a disposable, resealable plastic bag and store refrigerated. If purchasing dried rosemary, be sure to purchase the whole leaf, not the ground herb, as the whole leaf has way more flavor. If you buy it jarred, just keep it in the original jar and store in a cool, dry, dark cupboard. If you buy it from a spice shop, transfer it to a clean jar with an airtight lid and store in a cool place.”

Usage: “When using fresh rosemary, first give it a light rinse in cool water. Pat dry with paper towels and then strip off the needles from the stem. (You can use the heavy stems to throw in your fire when grilling for extra flavor!) Chop fresh rosemary leaves with a heavy, sharp knife on a cutting board. Crush dried whole-leaf rosemary in a spice grinder or on a cutting board with a heavy knife, or crush it in a mortar. If using dried rosemary, add it about 30 minutes before the end of the cooking time; add the fresh herb nearer the end of cooking.”

Recipe: Rosemary Rhubarb Lemonade

Diane Morgan’s cookbooks are always full of great information but are also delightful to read. From Dressed to Grill to Midnight Munchies, this Oregon-based cooking teacher is always cooking up something fun.

Diane’s favorite herb is basil.

Flavor: “I love it because it works with so many different ingredients. It is glorious with tomatoes, fabulous with eggplant, chopped and mixed with goat cheese and other herbs as a spread, shredded and tossed with pasta, olive oil, and Parmesan.”

Storage: “I try to keep a plant or two in my herb pots. Otherwise I buy it at the farmers’ market or at the grocery. I never refrigerate it because the leaves become spotted and brown. I keep it on the counter with the stems in a little water and a plastic bag loosely covering the leaves.”

Usage: “I like to chop it as needed and use it fresh, or, as I did in the salmon recipe, I blanch it and purée it and make a fabulous basil oil.”

Recipe: Pan-Roasted Salmon with Green Beans, Yellow Pear Tomatoes, and Basil Oil

Judith Fertig is known for her expertise in Midwestern cuisine. Her recipes are creative and simple to prepare. Her Prairie Home Cooking was nominated for both the James Beard and IACP cookbook awards. Judith’s latest book is Weeknight Grilling with the BBQ Queens: Making Meals Fast and Fabulous by Karen Adler and Judith Fertig (Harvard Common Press, 2006).

Judith’s favorite herb is dried tarragon.

Flavor: “The sweet, slightly anise-like flavor of tarragon is a natural to pair with sour and buttery tastes—maybe that's why I love it in béarnaise sauce! Its gentle flavor also goes well with chicken, fish, and shellfish.”

Storage: “I buy it in small quantities from a spice specialty store and keep it in my spice cabinet so it tastes fresher longer.”

Usage: “Place the dried tarragon in the palm of your hand, then rub your hands together while letting the dried herb fall into a bowl. This releases the essential oils in the herb.”

Recipe: French Scramble

Award-winning writer and cookbook author Joan Nathan shares her love and recipes for za’atar (a combination of herbs and spices). While za'atar is somewhat unusual, you will not find a better guide than Joan on how to incorporate it into your dishes. Her latest book, The New American Cooking (Knopf, 2005), has just won a James Beard Award.

Joan’s favorite herb is za’atar, which is actually a collection of herbs.

Flavor: “Za’atar is a combination of herbs and spices, often including wild oregano and thyme, sesame seeds, and sumac, obtainable these days at all Middle Eastern stores. I first tasted it when I lived in Israel. Flavored with the sumac, it is slightly lemony, yet so flavorful that I just sprinkle it on pita bread with a bit of olive oil or butter. It is said to clear the mind.”

Storage: “Whenever I hear of anyone coming from Lebanon, Jordan, or Israel, I ask them to bring me a new supply of it. Otherwise, I buy it locally here in Washington, D.C. I store it in a bottle in a dark drawer.”

Usage: “I sprinkle it on chicken, grilled fish, and bread. It adds a marvelous flavor.”

Recipe: Lemon-Stuffed Roast Chicken with Herbs

New York Times columnist and cookbook author Mark Bittman shares his love for cardamom and parsley. His How to Cook Everything cookbook is an absolute must-have for anyone who loves to spend time in the kitchen.

Mark's favorite herb is parsley.

Flavor: “It is completely overlooked; if it were uncommon, it would be treasured. Since it can be found everywhere, it's taken for granted.”

Storage: “Fresh, fresh, fresh; stored in plastic, or with its roots in water, it keeps well for a few days. Flat-leaf is marginally more flavorful (but don't make a big deal of it; curly-leaf is fine).”

Usage: “Do not chop too finely; use roughly chopped leaves and the thin stems; chop at the last minute. Use a LOT!”

Recipe: Red Tabbouleh

Once you've mastered these herbs, find out more about using spices to add a zing to your favorite dishes.

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